Diamond Shape and Cut

History of the various shapes

At the Middle Ages, they cut only the outsides faces of a stone. They levelled the faces. This method was very practised by the Hindus.

In 1919, Tolkowsky published the ideal proportions of a diamond. This cut counted 58 facets: the table, 32 facets between the table and the girdle and 24 facets between the girdle and the culet. This cut is regarded as the base of the modern cut.

In 1925, Johnson and Roesch published the proportions of another cut which did not have much success. This cut was called ideal brilliant .

In 1939, Eppler invented the cut fine practice which approached that of Tolkowsky.

In 1951, Parker invented a new cut which had the characteristic to have a very large spread out table.

In 1963, discovered Princess cut which comprises 74 facets.

In 1965, discovered high lights cut which comprises 146 facets.

In 1966, Tillander published the standards of the Scandinavian standart. This nomenclature is used as a basis for the modern cut.

In 1970, discovered Royal 144 cut which comprises 144 facets.

In 1978, IDC (International Diamond Council) defines the standards which gives to diamond the most refraction.

History of the brilliant cut

XVIIIe century XIXe century Beginning of XXe century
XVIIIe century XIXe century XXe century

Old cuts

XVIIIe century XIXe century Beginning of XXe century
XVIIIe century XIXe century XXe century

Recent cuts

Half cuts (1930) Modern cut
Half cuts Modern cut

Small stones

8/8 16/16 or swiss-cut
8/8 16/16

Brilliant and fancy cut

Oval Pear or Pearshape Marquise
Oval Pear Marquise
Heart Royal cut
Heart Royal cut

Step cut

Emerald Baguette
Emerald Baguette

Rose cuts

Cross Rose (Dutch) Simple Rose Antwerp Rose Shield
Cross Rose (Dutch) Simple Rose Antwerp Rose Shield

The principal shapes of diamond

Round Brilliant Diamond Princess Diamond Oval Diamond Pear Diamond Radiant Diamond
Round Brilliant Diamond Princess Diamond Oval Diamond Pear Diamond Radiant Diamond
Marquise Diamond Heart Diamond Emerald Diamond Cushion Diamond Trillion Diamond
Marquise Diamond Heart Diamond Emerald Diamond Cushion Diamond Trillion Diamond

The number of facets of the principal shapes

CUT NAME CROWN GIRDLE PAVILION TOTAL
Brilliant 1 table, 8 bezels, 8 stars and 16 upper girdle   8 pavilions and 16 lower girdle 57 facets
Emerald 25 facets 8 facets 24 facets 57 facets
Marquise 33 facets   22 facets 55 facets
Oval 33 facets   22 facets 55 facets
Pear 33 facets   23 facets 56 facets
Radiant 25 facets 8 facets 37 facets 70 facets
Triangle 7 facets 3 facets 9 facets 19 facets
Baguette 9 facets 4 facets 12 facets 25 facets
16/16 1 table, 16 facets   16 facets 33 facets
8/8 1 table, 8 facets   8 facets 17 facets


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